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  • anitrone updated her profile
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Sony Mirrorless w/MF Glass.
    What was your focus distance? Reason I ask, at least on my monitor there is very little detail/sharpness in the distant trees.
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Sony Mirrorless w/MF Glass.
    Focus was about 6-7 feet, in some of the shots you see a plant in the bottom left corner, focus was on the leaves of that plant. On some of the lenses it was hard to get focus on them so it would appear that I still have an adapter factor for... Focus was about 6-7 feet, in some of the shots you see a plant in the bottom left corner, focus was on the leaves of that plant. On some of the lenses it was hard to get focus on them so it would appear that I still have an adapter factor for them.

    At F5.6 one doesn't have a very clean rendering at infinity, would be much better at F8/F11. Interestingly I use this scene a lot to test lens performance rendering at infinity, some lenses perform remarkably much better than others.

    I have decided I will redo this test in better light and shoot a DF side by side so we can see lens by lens. I'd use the D810, but of course some of these lenses wont work on it.

    I might do it at the same scene I did the test of the 50's with since that particular scene has a nice frame of equidistant objects for the foreground so we can see the corner sharpness more consistently.

    Mark
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Sony Mirrorless w/MF Glass.
    I ran my test again yesterday on a different scene and shot the same sequence of lenses on both the A7RM2 and the Df. I went ahead and shot at F8 to really test corner sharpness. The DF showed high quality corners on all lenses. The A7RM2 didnt... I ran my test again yesterday on a different scene and shot the same sequence of lenses on both the A7RM2 and the Df. I went ahead and shot at F8 to really test corner sharpness. The DF showed high quality corners on all lenses. The A7RM2 didnt fair well at all. Here is your non graphic summary.

    28NC - Blurry Corners
    28Ais - Blurry Corners
    24NC - Reasonable
    24Ais - Reasonable
    20UD - Blurry Corners
    20 3.5 - Blurry Corners
    20 2.8 - Blurry Corners
    18 - Blurry Corners
    14 - Blurry Corners

    As you can see only the 24mm lenses performed decently. I noticed between the 5.6 test and f8 test that as you stop down more, corner sharpness improves in that the blur occurs more closely to the edges. The blur spreads inwards from the corners as you open up. Pretty much what you would expect.

    I suppose for someone that posts most pictures to the web its not much consequence if one shoots at F8. Once could with all those 42 MPs deliberately shoot wide and harvest the center and lop of the edges like a slice of toast. But for a $3K camera its highly undesirable to throw away as much as 20% of the frame.

    The bottom line here for me is that as a landscape camera the A7RM2 is untenable really with my wide Nikkors. 7 of of 10 Wides just didn't cut the mustard.

    Because I am interested in this camera I have decided to get a native 55mm lens. But I have to be honest here. Sony Glass is very expensive! The other issues with Sony is they change on a dime making older lenses less desirable so legacy support would seem short lived. Expensive glass and short legacy's don't seem to make much sense.

    What's next? Well, I will take my 35-58's out and see what corner sharpness looks like. The idea here is to find the line at which my legacy glass is tenable. From there I can decide if native glass investment on the wide end for the Sony makes sense.

    It would be nice if KolariVision could make a 35mm variant of their filters to help us like they have with the Leica M and RF lenses.
    It may take me a while to post the results. I would like to take a week or two break from testing the Sony and break my DF and D810 back out. I'll test the 55 when it arrives.

    A few more notes here. While peeking is cool, one has to really place a lot of trust and faith in its ability to nail focus. The highlights in the EVF make it extremely difficult to see focus with your naked eye. This may warrant a programmed button for me to toggle peeking on and off. Other EVF tweaks may be in order like brightening up the display so I can see better in high contrast scenes.

    There is quite a paradigm shift when switching over. I can tell you now that you will not want to try and make a quick decision like rent and decide. If you want to use your non native legacy glass, your going to need time to adjust and find what works and if it will work. Adapters alone can set you back in just finding one that supports your glass well. Both my cheapos need flocking.

    I also noticed some very interesting metering differences yesterday. The Sony seemed to shoot the test scene at 1/2500 while the Nikon was happy with 1/250th - to 1/380th. No, that wasn't me reading it or typing it wrong. The EXIF doesn't lie either. That is quite disturbing in its own right if you can imagine the ramifications of that in bright light.

    I think that's all I have to offer now other than one who doesn't plan to invest in native Sony glass or has a strong Nikkor glass collection ;) may not have an enjoyable experience on the A7RM2.

    Mark
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Sony Mirrorless w/MF Glass.
    I took a few bags of glass out with me today to see how things would go, mainly AF and MF zooms, Art 35, 85 1.4 Ais, 15mm F3.5 Ais, ect.

    The Sony performs better with adapted modern glass. The 35 Art, Tamrons 24-70, 70-200, 15-30 all worked...
    I took a few bags of glass out with me today to see how things would go, mainly AF and MF zooms, Art 35, 85 1.4 Ais, 15mm F3.5 Ais, ect.

    The Sony performs better with adapted modern glass. The 35 Art, Tamrons 24-70, 70-200, 15-30 all worked pretty decent. Still looking at these and maybe will post some samples later. These were all screwing around testing kind of pictures. The Nikkor 50-300 F/4.5 ED worked really well as well. The 50-136 F/3.5 Ais performed well also. The older lenses not so good. The Tamron 15-30 was sharp to the edges. Its so puzzeling why some perform extremely well while others do not. Perhaps their optical formulas inherently are designed to work across several bodies and so maybe they have an edge in that regard.

    Mark
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Sony Mirrorless w/MF Glass.
    That is good to hear that the 50-300 performs well. Especially for people interested in video. From what I read the Sony is great at video. The 50-300 is my standard lens for event video when I am shooting from a tripod and not having to move... That is good to hear that the 50-300 performs well. Especially for people interested in video. From what I read the Sony is great at video. The 50-300 is my standard lens for event video when I am shooting from a tripod and not having to move around. I will have to share a picture of my "Frankenrig" with that lens over in the lens forum. :)

    Thanks for sharing all of your findings Mark.

    George
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Sony Mirrorless w/MF Glass.
    Its been a little under 48 hours now and I have made some significant leaps in exploring this camera. So let's start with the gut reaction. I will not sell my D810, I am leaning towards possibly keeping the A7RII. There is a lot to adapt to... Its been a little under 48 hours now and I have made some significant leaps in exploring this camera. So let's start with the gut reaction. I will not sell my D810, I am leaning towards possibly keeping the A7RII. There is a lot to adapt to when changing over from the Nikons.

    Focus Peaking has been set to low. I cannot confirm this, however, I think it allows me to get more critical focus by showing less of what is in focus.

    Metering has been changed to center weighting.. I need to program a AE button though to make the shooting experience more like my Nikons.

    Switching lenses is actually easier with the Sony. I have programmed the C3 button to take me to the SteadyShot FL menu. One button and then you scroll to your FL and select it and your off shooting. This comes at the cost of no lens EXIF data with the adapter I am using. I would recommend the Novoflex adapter for $290 and AIs lenses for this camera. Then you just go without lens data on your non AI lenses.

    As we saw in my last post, there is quite a bit of DR to work with, the 14bit uncompressed files are pretty nice to work with and tomorrow I will see if I am fully where I want to be with the AE button programmed.

    I need to see if I can get one of the wheels to change ISO as currently I dive into the menu using the FN button and select it.

    I am seeing what might be internal reflections off the CCD using the 85mm F1.4 Ais and Fotasy adapter I am using. Probably not an issue with lenses designed for the camera. You'll see a sample of that later after I am done processing pictures.

    Your looking at a different shooting experience for the most part where you need to keep better track of your shutter speed with regards to the lens your using. SteadyShot is only so good so you can get away with a few stops but I am not having luck getting the 4 they claim. Keep the lens at a little under 1X focal length seems to work well. IE, the 85mm shoots comfortably at 1/50th. I have to play with this more to see if for example it would work at 1/20, ect.

    Regarding Noise and ISO performance. I suppose its about like the D810. There are a few ISO's where the DR will peak, like 50, 100, 640. You might be better off for example shooting ISO 640 verses ISO 400.

    I cant see where I wouldn't be able to use any of the MF lenses in my stable. I would be curios to try and adapter with some electronic coupling. Also curios if some adapters aggravate or improve internal reflections.

    As you can see there was a lot to share from the past 24 hours. I may come back and add more thoughts after I reflect on things more. Again, I think its important to note that these are reactionary notes. I may find better ways to approach this, or the camera may lead me to change my shooting style as I progress. This is a process, so first order of business is to get it setup in such a way as its close to how I shoot on my Nikons. Then I can compare, then evolve. Also remember, my adapter is low tech and cost a whopping $14.95. :)
    Pictures to follow later.
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Sony Mirrorless w/MF Glass.
    The rest of this mornings experiments:

    https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5709/22562693952_36e799577b_b.jpgTrees_DSC00216 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5631/22389424349_44d2edb6f1_b.jpgSunPlane_85F14Ais_DSC00210 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    https://farm1.staticflickr.com/566/22389427519_0395b3731e_b.jpgSonyTest_20F35Ais_ISO1600_DSC00185 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5714/21953511794_bb7fe71ab2_b.jpgRoad_85F14Ais_DSC00194 by Nik...
    The rest of this mornings experiments:

    https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5709/22562693952_36e799577b_b.jpgTrees_DSC00216 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5631/22389424349_44d2edb6f1_b.jpgSunPlane_85F14Ais_DSC00210 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    https://farm1.staticflickr.com/566/22389427519_0395b3731e_b.jpgSonyTest_20F35Ais_ISO1600_DSC00185 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5714/21953511794_bb7fe71ab2_b.jpgRoad_85F14Ais_DSC00194 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5619/22389438619_1a79bc6dca_b.jpgHeliManagement_85F14Ais_DSC00207 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    https://farm1.staticflickr.com/772/22389440449_0596c7b62e_b.jpgHeliLot_85F14Ais_DSC00205 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    https://farm1.staticflickr.com/667/21953525334_0542c3b3de_b.jpgBarn_85F14Ais_DSC00191 by NikkorGlass.com, on Flickr

    Thats all for the day, one more round tomorrow and then I will see what the weekend yields.

    Mark
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Sony Mirrorless w/MF Glass.
    That is an interesting review. Thanks Mark!
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Sony Mirrorless w/MF Glass.
    Give the old glass a chance!!! B)
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  • Colors and wide open bokeh with this lens.

    https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8503/29101135062_cb47029eb4_b.jpgFlowers by Maryland Photos, on Flickr
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  • Fortunately Buddy (the Solitaire at the NMFG thread) gave me an explanation:

    "Jose, don't be confused.

    What you did is remove the "difference". You cropped the FoV of the D610 to be identical to that of the V1. In which case you use the...
    Fortunately Buddy (the Solitaire at the NMFG thread) gave me an explanation:

    "Jose, don't be confused.

    What you did is remove the "difference". You cropped the FoV of the D610 to be identical to that of the V1. In which case you use the same image circle for both cameras, hence the DoF is identical for both shots.

    The reason why the "perceived Aperture" on a V1 would be any different to that of the D610 when using the same lens is because you use a different FoV. The DoF remains identical however.

    In laymans terms, the DoF of a 85mm f1,8 lens at a given distance remains the same. When you cut out the center part of the image taken with that lens you do not change the aperture, nor the DoF. What you change is the FoV and this causes the perceived difference. Technically however all lens properties stay unchanged, regardless of the sensor size"

    Thanks Buddy!

    Anyway good to know the tiny V1 sensor under right circunstances can deliver reasonable bokehs.
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  • My favorite lens ever, Nikon made this lens in S-Mount, Contax RF MOunt, Leica Mount, and F-Mount.

    https://farm1.staticflickr.com/765/21312346249_e671f8daee_b.jpgnikkor_105_1 by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

    This Sonnar formula lens is 5 elements in 3 groups, a 1-3-1 configuration. What's that mean? The...
    My favorite lens ever, Nikon made this lens in S-Mount, Contax RF MOunt, Leica Mount, and F-Mount.

    https://farm1.staticflickr.com/765/21312346249_e671f8daee_b.jpgnikkor_105_1 by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

    This Sonnar formula lens is 5 elements in 3 groups, a 1-3-1 configuration. What's that mean? The Sonnar is an Asymmetric lens. The front element and middle group form a telephoto lens with a focal length about 2.5x the overall final focal length of the completed lens. The rear element, or group in most shorter focal length Sonnars, have a focal length about the same as the completed lens. The "Lens Makers Formula" brings the front and rear group in close to each other to give the focal length of the complex lens.

    https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8884/16849191333_bbc1f4091f_b.jpgNikkor105_Monochrom by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

    This lens was introduced in 1952, was introduced in Black. It was the first Nikkor to use 52mm filters. The hood shown is the proper RF version, is slimmer than the later SLR version. The latter will interfere with the RF window of many cameras, so it;s best to find the original or use a vented hood made for a 50mm lens.

    Wide-Open

    https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5340/17442876966_0befa83789_b.jpgSpring 2015 by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

    The F-Mount 10.5cm F2.5 was slightly modified from the original formula, moved the rear element in slightly (1mm) to clear the mirror. This usually makes the overall focal length slightly shorter. I've never noticed a difference. This lens is undercorrected for spherical aberration, and has some slight residual astigmatism. Very smooth Bokeh, football shapes at the extremes.
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  • Stopped down a little makes it easier to catch the action,

    https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8634/15853622407_66e6a14d26_o.jpgGulfarium, Ft Walton Beach by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

    These are at F5.6.

    https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7471/16038680122_4cc5ee8785_o.jpgGulfarium, Ft Walton Beach by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

    The 90mm framelines on a Leica are...
    Stopped down a little makes it easier to catch the action,

    https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8634/15853622407_66e6a14d26_o.jpgGulfarium, Ft Walton Beach by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

    These are at F5.6.

    https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7471/16038680122_4cc5ee8785_o.jpgGulfarium, Ft Walton Beach by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

    The 90mm framelines on a Leica are perfect for this lens, 100% frame with a 105- margin for a 90 so they say. I think Leica secretly designed the framelines for this lens and told everyone it was margin for a 90.

    https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7514/15853622597_692c8553d8_o.jpgGulfarium, Ft Walton Beach by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

    I use a 1.25x magnifier for this lens, but you still have plenty of margin to follow the action.
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  • anitrone replied to a discussion, Nikon 85mm f1.4 AIS
    The original cream machine. Extraordinary fashion and portrait lens. :)

    The ultimate in low light, image isolation, and watercolor dab bokeh.

    Only reason I have never owned one is the filter ring size. I'm trying to stick with 52 myself....
    The original cream machine. Extraordinary fashion and portrait lens. :)

    The ultimate in low light, image isolation, and watercolor dab bokeh.

    Only reason I have never owned one is the filter ring size. I'm trying to stick with 52 myself. Same deal on the super fast 105.

    One thing to be careful of is that giant front element. A lens that should have some filter any filter on it at all times probably.
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